Years ago, I accompanied my then boyfriend to a dinner at his new boss’s house.
The boss’s wife made a shrimp pasta with creamy dill sauce. Everyone was served a plate mounded with linguine and shrimp, smothered in a cream sauce that was practically green with dill. Each serving could have easily fed a family of 4. This dish was so heavy (and overwhelmingly “dill”), that after a few bites, I was done. I was faced with the dilemma - Do I leave a substantial amount of food on my plate, and risk offending our gracious hosts? OR, Do I attempt to clean my plate and risk a stomach-pumping session after dinner? Alas, I was brought up with the mantra to never waste food – so I took a deep breath, channeled the spirit of a competitive eater, and dug into my giant plate of pasta. Since that night, I have avoided anything that contained dill. Anything dill would give me flashbacks of the boss’s wife’s pasta – shudder!!
A few weeks ago, my dill-free life ended – unintentionally, unexpectedly, and undeniably- deliciously!
I enjoyed lunch at Kokkari Estiatorio. It was my first visit to this famous FiDi establishment and I was lucky to be in the company of “Kokkari insiders” Deborah Kwan and Michael Procopio!! I was in great hands - so I sat back and let them do all of the ordering! We started with a spread of appetizers –Tomato and Peach Salad (a surprisingly delightful combination), Grilled Peppers (delicious and simple), Taramosalata (ugh! So good, I could live on this!!), Favosalata (this is not made with fava beans and please, do NOT call it “hummus”), and my favorite, the Grilled Octopus (nuff said). Michael warned us not to fill up on the pita bread – which is just so fluffy, warm, and delicious!! We followed up with the amazing Grilled Lamb Chops with the famous Kokkari Potatoes and …… the Gigandes.
Gigandes are giant beans that are baked in tomato sauce. OMG! These Gigandes changed my life! They arrived still bubbling hot from the oven – giant tender beans in rich, flavorful tomato sauce, topped with feta cheese and a green sauce. Each fork full was immediately followed with another, til I had to stop and consider that my lunch mates might want to have some Gigandes as well. The flavors in this dish were very complex – there was an ingredient that took the dish to the next level, but I couldn’t identify it…….. hmmmmm what could that flavor be??
Our dessert was Galaktoboureko – which looked like flakey filo “egg rolls” filled with semolina custard, apricot spoon sweets, and pistachio ice cream. YUM!!! ("lick the plate" good!!)
My first visit to Kokkari was unforgettable – the warm and friendly people, the cozy yet upscale surroundings, delicious, delicious food, and of course, my amazing company! The best part is - I now am the proud owner of the new Kokkari cookbook!!! I scanned the recipe for Gigandes (pg. 64). What was that ingredient that gave this dish such amazing flavor? Yup, it was DILL!!!
Thanks to Deborah Kwan, David Hawk and Chronicle Books for allowing me to share the following recipe with you!
From Erik Cosselmon and Janet Fletcher, Kokkari: Contemporary Greek Flavors, Chronicle Books
Oven-Baked Giant Beans with Tomato, Dill & Feta
Gigandes Plaki
We cook these enormous white beans in an aromatic broth, then let them rest overnight in tomato sauce to soak up flavor. The following day, we reheat them to order with a topping of crumbled feta and dill. Even well-heeled Greeks have a soft spot for the humble gigandes. Serve these creamy beans as a meze, as a side dish with roast lamb or goat, or as a meatless main course.
1 pound dried gigantes (giant white beans) or other white beans
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper
1 large onion, coarsely chopped
1 large carrot, peeled and coarsely chopped
2 inner ribs celery, coarsely chopped
1 large leek, including pale green parts, coarsely chopped and rinsed
1 clove garlic, minced
1 tablespoon dried Greek oregano, crumbled
2 bay leaves
2 1/2 cups Kokkari Tomato Sauce (please see separate recipe)
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
4 tablespoons minced fresh dill
1/4 pound Greek feta cheese, crumbled
Cover the beans with 3 inches of cold water and let soak overnight. Drain and rinse. Put the soaked beans in a stockpot and cover with 2 inches of cold water. Bring to a simmer over high heat, skimming any surface foam. Add 2 teaspoons salt. Cover and adjust the heat to maintain a gentle simmer. After 45 minutes, add the onion, carrot, celery, leek, garlic, oregano, and bay leaves. Raise the heat to return to a simmer. Adjust the heat to maintain a bare simmer and cook, uncovered, until the beans are tender, 45 minutes or more depending on their age. Test several, as they do not always cook evenly.
Drain the beans in a colander, reserving the tasty broth for another use, such as soup. Remove the bay leaves. Return the beans to the pot and stir in the tomato sauce, olive oil, and 3 tablespoons of the dill. Season to taste with salt and pepper. You can prepare the beans to this point 1 day ahead; cover and refrigerate. Reheat gently before continuing.
Preheat the broiler. Transfer the beans to an 11-by-7-inch baking dish or a dish of comparable size, spreading them evenly. Combine the feta and the remaining 1 tablespoon dill and sprinkle evenly over the beans. Broil on the top rack until the beans are heated through and the surface is appetizingly browned. Serve hot.
Serves 6
Kokkari Tomato Sauce
The reputation of a Greek kitchen rests in part on its tomato sauce because so many key dishes rely on it. You can’t make a tasty pastitsio or a soul-stirring rendition of baked gigandes without it. Some cooks add sugar, cinnamon, or allspice, but we favor Mediterranean herbs: fresh basil and the dried Greek oregano that is our aromatic signature. The sauce keeps for 1 week in the refrigerator, or you can freeze it.
1 can (28-ounce) San Marzano tomatoes, with juice
2 cloves garlic
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon Italian tomato paste (optional)
1/2 teaspoon dried Greek oregano, crumbled
1 sprig fresh basil
Sea salt
In a food processor, puree the tomatoes with their juice. Set aside. Crush the garlic cloves with the heel of your palm against the side of a chef’s knife.
In a medium saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the garlic and sauté just until it begins to brown, tipping the pan so the cloves remain covered in oil. Remove from the heat and discard the garlic cloves.
Add the pureed tomatoes to the hot oil—the mixture will sizzle and splatter—then return the pan to medium heat. Cook, stirring often and adjusting the heat to maintain a gentle simmer, until the sauce has thickened and lost its raw taste, about 15 minutes. If the flavor does not seem rich enough, stir in the tomato paste. Add the oregano and simmer 5 minutes more. Add the basil sprig and remove from the heat. Season to taste with salt. You can refrigerate any unused sauce for up to 3 days.
So my food moral of this tale is that ingredients – whether good, bad, expensive, cheap – should never be used in excess, and unless I’m allergic to something, I should never boycott an ingredient for the risk of missing out on true taste sensory bliss!!
Erik and Janet will be at Omnivore Books Saturday, Oct 15th, 2011 from 3-4pm to share tastes of dishes from the cookbook.
gigantes - before and after soaking - Go Giants!!
